Known for her Shree cloth saree in various veneers and quirky motifs, designer Lipsa Hembram has given a new lease of life to the coarse cotton-futa Jhala saree of Santhal tribals of Mayurbhanj, Odisha.
Seven years ago, when lipsa Hembram launched his first design studio, the label Galang Gaban – meaning to create something with love in Santhali language. She wanted to do traditional warfare contemporary with Santhal women.
Today, she retails across the country including the Hindi film industry.
“Over the years, the way Bollywood has supported small businesses and regional textiles and especially sarees, it is nice to be part of that list. My creations are very simple and special and I love it when someone wears it, ”says the designer’s lipsha Hembram.
Coming from the Santhal tribe in Dandbose village in Mayurbhanj district, Hembram grew up watching his family weave Santhalis at festivals and celebrations. An alumnus of the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Hyderabad understood its cultural relevance only after the fashion industry surfaced.
Describing the 35-year-old designer who wants to bring Santali culture to the forefront of contemporary form through her brand, she says, “It was only at the behest of my mother that I started working on Santhali design.” So you have a new word woven into the design of flowers, animals and birds, while the essence is the same.
Last year, she demonstrated the installation of the futa Jhalia Sari at the Belladia Palace in Mayurbhanj in the 18th century as part of the Karkhana history campaign. Working with a natural colored organic fabric from Kotpad in Koraput, Odisha, Hembrom claims that it adds a soft touch to the fabric.
“In fact, the natural dyeing process is one of Odisha’s first GI-tag products,” says the designer, who is now working with Balangir weavers in block-level clusters and helping them develop new designs and products are doing.
It aims at recycling and recycling textile waste, creating only limited edition collections. To prevent waste in the landfill, his team fabricates every little bit of leftover fabric and then fabricates it.